Conditions are ripe for a high-profile Portuguese restaurant in Boston: the abundance of seafood; proximity to Lisbon (it takes as long to fly there as to Los Angeles); the large Portuguese diaspora in nearby Fall River and New Bedford. Enter Baleia. With mosaic tiles and chic fishing-net chandeliers, it feels like a slice of the Algarve in the South End. The chef Andrew Hebert has assembled an attractive menu of Portugal’s greatest gastronomic hits, from crisp-delicate salt cod fritters to expertly grilled piri piri chicken. Its shrimp Mozambique wades in a garlic-lemon pan sauce so buttery and soppable, you may find yourself arm wrestling tablemates over the grilled bread. Even more impressive than the mains are Mr. Hebert’s breads and pastries. The olive oil cake is exquisite, and the fried, beignet-like sonhos are so dreamy and light they seem to defy gravity. – KEVIN PANG
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